Tim Firmager steps into Six Storeys, the newest member of the Camm & Hooper group, to find out what infusions and food is on offer at the Soho venue.
Six Storeys on Soho is the latest addition to the Camm and Hooper portfolio, joining the well-known Tanner & Co and Victorian Bath House venues. Six Storeys on Soho is a complete redevelopment of what was well-known gay bar The Edge. We at Vada find out how much of the heritage of the building has been retained and what the new bar and restaurant offers.
The development from Six Storeys on Soho has opened up all 6 floors of the venue offering a mix of bar, restaurant and private dining areas allowing guests to experience the spirit of Soho throughout the building. The entire venue has been re-styled to give the impression of dining in a Georgian or Victorian town house: the effect is opulent comfort.
The venue is split over 6 floors:
The Decantry in particular is worth a visit, as the dance floor from The Edge has been retained. It is on this floor that Six Storeys’ resident Chief Booze Engineer, Patrick, stores his infamous decanters of diffusions. Moreover this floor also sees one of the alcoves converted into a bed, with a curtain divide hinting at the hidden debauchery of Soho. Whilst some beers and wines (and Champagnes – of course) are available, Camm & Hooper have made a refreshing decision to avoid drink branding throughout the venue, and guests are encouraged to explore the decanters and infusions displayed.
Back on the first floor Parlour is where we enjoyed a mid-week dinner. To start, we shared 5 small plates (£25 in total), of which we chose the Six Storeys Scotch Egg, Cured Salmon & Chive Sour Cream, Mac ’n’ Cheese Balls, Crispy Pickles and Truffled Somerset Brie. Possibly one dish too many for two people to share, these incredibly moreish small bites are hard to resist. The heavenly deep-fried balls of Mac n Cheese are the antithesis of healthy but perfectly necessitated to bring balance to life. The brie too was a mouthful of gooey heaven with the complex earthiness of the truffle enhancing the cheese’s flavour.
A demi-pause for digestion later, and main courses were served. These arrived in the form of Casterbridge Rib Eye Steak (£25.50) served with truffled fries, beef butter and watercress, and a Herb Crusted Chicken (£14.50) served with truffle mayonnaise and watercress. We shared sides (£5 each) of truffled fries and a red cabbage coleslaw. The steak was cooked exactly as requested, and the crunchy chicken cutlets are everything one could desire from a breaded escalope.
The menu of large plates broadly conforms to a gastro pub selection with some indulgent twists, with the focus at Six Storeys being as much as on the beverages as the food itself.
Chief Booze Engineer Patrick is continually evolving his selection of infused spirits, so on different visits, the same drink will never be exactly the same. With many infusions available there are over 50 drinks on the cocktail menu. This can be somewhat overwhelming in deciding what to choose. We recommend eyeing up the infusions themselves to spot a flavour combination of preference, and ask the barman to concoct a drink using it. What stands out as one of our favourites since Six Storeys opened in December is a Martini (all priced at £9.50) made with strawberry and basil infused vodka. This combination in the infusion bottles up the flavour of the habitually brief British summer, making it available 365 days per year.
El Marjorie Dawes (£10.50) is another cocktail success. This drink embodies the Little Britain character in cocktail form, made from Tequila, lime, pink grapefruit and of course spiced DUST. The Six Storeys take on a Mojito, a Go-Hito (£9.50) is made with Egyptian mint tea infused rum, lime, agave and sparkling water. In this infusion again, Patrick has found the right balance of rum and mint tea, making a sublime cocktail.
Six Storeys interpretation of an Espresso Martini, “Pick me up…and f**k me up” (£10.50), is made with vodka, espresso and invites drinkers to add their own elbow grease. Yes, guests strain this drink from the cocktail shaker into the coupe glass themselves.
Camm and Hooper have successfully re-imagined the space that was previously The Edge into a unique and quirky venue befitting of the Soho location. Whilst not an LGBT-focussed venue anymore, Six Storeys does embrace quirky character, uniqueness and openness. The British menu with indulgent twists offers two courses (of proportions of three) for circa £30 per person. And with it’s profound selection of infusions and cocktails, and location on the corner of Soho Square, we can see Six Storeys proving very popular, particularly during the summer.
Six Storeys on Soho is located at 11 Soho Square, London, W1D 3QE
For more information about the venue and to book a table, visit sixstoreys.com.