Restaurant review: Mr Cooper’s House & Garden, Manchester

Adam Lowe

With a tree as a centrepiece, Mr Cooper’s House & Garden is not only an exciting concept but a brilliant eaterie, located in the plush surrounding of The Midland in Manchester.

When you first walk in, the striking white gives a sense of minimalist elegance, offset somewhat by the earthy wood details and indoor plants. It’s bright and uplifting, and entering (as we did) from the spa reaffirms your positive feelings.

Adding to the sense of clean-living here, you’ll find menus suitable for a range of dietary needs. Usually, my college Michael Bryant and I are a difficult pair: he’s vegetarian (slowly going vegan), and I’m lactose intolerant and mostly gluten-free (slowly going ketogenic). Thankfully, we’re both on the slack side of our diets when we review restaurants (otherwise we’d never be able to try anything), but we needn’t have been. Vegetarian, lactose-free and gluten-free were all accounted for – and there was no worry of missing out.

Being an avid meat-eater (and trying to skip sugary treats), I opted for a starter instead of a dessert, while Michael went for the sweet. I tried the ham hock first, which was served with a carrot salad and carrot jam. Colourful, fresh and packed with vitamins and flavour, this was a gorgeous opening to our meal and I’d recommend it to anyone.

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Next up we each had our mains. Michael opted for a dairy-free butternut squash risotto with roasted chestnuts and toasted seeds. Though vegan, the dish didn’t lose out on creaminess by skipping dairy, with a rich quality and a satisfying portion size. This was really, really good.

Satisfied with my red meat starter, I went for the market fish (seabass) for my main with confit potatoes, mussels and saffron. Tasty, balanced and light, this was a great main.

For dessert, Michael ordered the fruit platter with mango sorbet. This was a tropical treat without being overwhelmingly sugary. It felt light, refreshing and indulgent in a guilt-free way.

Mr Cooper’s House & Garden is a smart, tasteful restaurant with excellent food, world class service and a relaxing, garden-inspired setting. It gets an A+ from us.

Mr Cooper’s House & Garden, The Midland Hotel, Peter St, Manchester M60 2DS / / 0161 235 4781

About Adam Lowe

Adam Lowe is an award-winning author, editor and publisher from Leeds, now based in Manchester. He runs Dog Horn Publishing and is Director and Writing Coordinator for Young Enigma, a writer development programme for LGBT young people. He sometimes performs as Beyonce Holes.